Épicuriales of Liège 2024, Day 2. Friday lunchtime: wine and fish
By Sophie Brissaud.
No, this is not the dessert of the day...
But this Friday, after lunch, on the way to my hotel, I pass by the window of the Eggenols Patisserie (a family business since 1930) and I’m wide-eyed. Thankfully, I’m leaving the table, so I resist the temptation to go in and try everything: the apricot tart, the strawberry-rhubarb tart, and the rice tart (top right).
French readers, don’t fall off your chairs, I did say «tarte au riz» (rice tart). It’s a speciality of Belgian Limburg and it originally comes from the town of Verviers. I know people around me – the French can sometimes be haughty – who mock the concept, others tell me it simply can't exist. I don't allow it. It's excellent, it's like rice pudding or baked rice cake, but there's a pastry base underneath, that's all. A light, brioche-like pastry base, like they make here. Georges Simenon adored the rice tart from Eggenols, but yes, so we don't mock other people’s desserts, especially since French pastry no longer really has any lessons to teach, having become, in my opinion, far too rich and sweet; it’s all ganaches, gelatine, and whipped mascarpone now, which is really starting to get a bit much, seriously, we're suffocating. So, a cute and simple apricot tart, or strawberry-rhubarb – marriage made in Heaven —, we approve. Look how cute these tarts are, bursting with fruit and generously filled. And this tender, flaky pastry won't be left on the side of the plate, She. So, make a note of a first address, Eggenols, Rue des Guillemins, …you won’t regret it if you pop into Liège. They have a famous speciality, the Marouff, a cake made with Savoy sponge and an ultra-light chocolate mousse. They also make Sachertorte and Malakoff, among other things. But enough about cakes – let’s get back to Épicuriales.
Lunch for six hands (and two plates) Agron Billa,
Yann Stroobant and Daniel Demolin
Agron Billa, Head of the catering house Goose in Grivegnée, takes care of the starter. The main course is prepared by the two chefs Yann Stroobant (Cabal in Liège, Georgian inspiration) and Daniel Demolin restaurant The Danieli, Italian inspiration.
If the introduction of Agron Billa brings to mind a cartoon character, it's certainly unintentional, and that smile will soon be overshadowed by the other elements of the starter.
Agron Billa.
It's Friday, fish day (starter and main). For Yann and Daniel, it will be mackerel, carefully deboned by hand (what a job!).
Belgium, whose wines I don't know, a fortiori the Liège wines surprise me. These Aeolides have a crazy charm: a dry, fresh, lemony white, white flowers, balanced and airy.
And what's more, it's organic. This cuvée from the estate Liège wine It is made from three regional grape varieties: Johanniter, Souvignier Gris, and Muscaris, whose notes are reminiscent of Riesling at times, and Muscat at others. A fine success harvested from aeolian loess soils on limestone and a real "come back for more" taste. Liège, you have no need to be ashamed of your wines, know this.
Semi-cooked wild salmon, beetroot, tomato tartare and parmesan foam. Agron served this dish with a masterful lightness, a clear and structured presentation, not a morsel too many. The chromatic balance (the salmon just kissed by the heat, the tomato tartare) is enhanced by a pretty, sharp vinaigrette that has a stained-glass-like quality.
Here is the Mackerel flame-grilled, Stéphane Longlune asparagus, wild garlic tremali. There are several green things that regularly leap out at us from April onwards: green asparagus, wild garlic, and peas. We're very fond of this biodynamically grown asparagus, this tangy condiment… Where are the tremble, by the way? It sounds like pasta. In fact, I ponder for a long time until I remember that Yann Stroobant is referring to Georgia: ah! so it's a Tkemali. Shellfish. No worries. Everything is in order. It’s good, but I can’t help but note that a fillet of mackerel flamed is generally cooked on one side. It’s a form of unilateral cooking and that’s what gives it its charm. I discover it cooked underneath as well, perhaps it was passed through the oven to ensure it wasn’t raw, thus losing much of the appeal of the flaming.
Throughout the festival, the cheeses served in the chefs' tent will be selected by Grégory, director of the excellent cheese maturing house. Cheese You can't miss it, it's on the same pavement as Eggenols. The choice is between French and Walloon cheeses. All different and all perfect for every meal, which is quite a feat.
The desserts are served to us by the ice cream maker Arthur m’Rabet (Giu) and the coffees by the house Charles Liégeois (which was formerly called Café Liégeois but has since reverted to its founder's name). The wines are offered in collaboration with the house Toby Vins with a strong preponderance of Côtes du Rhône, an appellation dear to Pierre Luthers.
These pots and pans resting on the work surface in the chefs' tent itself capture my attention. For whom do they simmer? I have a clue: during lunch, Mehdi asked me to turn the heat down to the lowest setting under the large stewpot… Cyrille Prestianni took care of it. More to come soon.
